- Published on
Thinking about getting a booth at a flea market/antique store?
Well, it's a little like the children's book If You Give A Mouse A Cookie.
So, let's get started, first thing's first...If you want to start a booth, you'll need:
Well, it's a little like the children's book If You Give A Mouse A Cookie.
So, let's get started, first thing's first...If you want to start a booth, you'll need:
1. Merchandise
The first thing you need to have a booth at an antique store/flea market is stuff to put in it, right? This may seem obvious, but it can be a challenge to keep your booth full. For some people, it is the reason that they want to have a booth, maybe they want to clear out extra items. For others, they just enjoy hunting for the items to fill the booth, and for some people they love the hunt and that's *why* they need to clear out the extra. ;) Spend some time checking out what your item should cost, take into account who will be your customers and the community you will be servicing, then you can better choose what items to take to your booth. Then when you give the booth some merchandise, you will need some...
2. Tags
...tags to go with it!
Tags/tickets let the buyer know how much you are asking for the item. I suggest larger tags 2 1/2 x 5 inches for larger items such as table and chairs, dressers etc... Small tags seem to get lost on these items.
A tag size of 2 1/2 inches by 1 1/2 inches is a good size for everything else. If you go smaller it becomes hard for the buyers and clerks to read,
thus leaving an opening for dispute.
Write the description, your vendor number and the price very clearly. If it is hard to read there can be confusion on the item or the price. The shop/store needs to be able to read your vendor number so your item can be matched with you so that you get paid.
Also, a short description on the tag is very helpful for two reasons; 1) if the tag should get separated from the item, it will make it easier to match them up and 2) if the tag has been placed on the wrong item. For pricing books, {inexpensive paperbacks} placing a tag over the bar code works well. If it is a table book or hard back, a bookmark with the price, vendor number, and description helps to keep from damaging the book with tape, you could always place a string through the middle and tie it completely around the book and attach the tag to it.
If you are pricing material items such as pillow, quilts, curtains, etc., try using a safety pin to attach the tag to the material.
Attaching prices to paper magazines or newspaper is also best over the label with scotch tape.
Be sure to attach the tags securely to each item.
Tags/tickets let the buyer know how much you are asking for the item. I suggest larger tags 2 1/2 x 5 inches for larger items such as table and chairs, dressers etc... Small tags seem to get lost on these items.
A tag size of 2 1/2 inches by 1 1/2 inches is a good size for everything else. If you go smaller it becomes hard for the buyers and clerks to read,
thus leaving an opening for dispute.
Write the description, your vendor number and the price very clearly. If it is hard to read there can be confusion on the item or the price. The shop/store needs to be able to read your vendor number so your item can be matched with you so that you get paid.
Also, a short description on the tag is very helpful for two reasons; 1) if the tag should get separated from the item, it will make it easier to match them up and 2) if the tag has been placed on the wrong item. For pricing books, {inexpensive paperbacks} placing a tag over the bar code works well. If it is a table book or hard back, a bookmark with the price, vendor number, and description helps to keep from damaging the book with tape, you could always place a string through the middle and tie it completely around the book and attach the tag to it.
If you are pricing material items such as pillow, quilts, curtains, etc., try using a safety pin to attach the tag to the material.
Attaching prices to paper magazines or newspaper is also best over the label with scotch tape.
Be sure to attach the tags securely to each item.
The next thing you will want in your basket of tricks is...
3. Tape
You will probably want to have different types of tape on hand for different items. Scotch tape is the most widely used and works well on most items. It works best on glass, plastic, and pottery items.
Masking tape works best on wood items.
Also, if the item is being placed outside masking tape tends to stand up to the weather better than Scotch tape.
The best way to attach a tag is no tape, if possible.
Masking tape works best on wood items.
Also, if the item is being placed outside masking tape tends to stand up to the weather better than Scotch tape.
The best way to attach a tag is no tape, if possible.
***Bonus***
Easy way to attach a price tag: Pull the tag through the center of it's string.
4. Pens & Markers
Here at GA, we like the looks of a Sharpie pens writing for the 1 1/2" X 2 1/2" inch tags/tickets. We like to use a black marker for the larger card stock type tags. A good black ink pen works great as well, we just find that the thick gel ink shows up nicely and makes for a more professional looking tag.
5. Measuring Tape
A measuring tape is of great value in the upkeep of a booth, trust us, you'll be shocked at how much you find use for it!
It is used to check spaces in the booth and for loading vehicles. It is used to measure the sizes of items to place that information on the tags/tickets. We get phone calls asking us to measure items all the time; the height and/or length of a dresser or table. The height of the shelves or if they are adjustable. What is the size of the quilt, will that over-sized couch fit in my car, etc... You get the picture.
It is also helpful to know the measurements of common household items, such as beds: Twin size 39" x 75", Full size is 54" x 75", Queen size 60" x 80", King 76" x 80."
Seriously, a good measuring tape is worth it's weight in gold! (Or at least the room it'll take up in your basket/box/purse!)
It is used to check spaces in the booth and for loading vehicles. It is used to measure the sizes of items to place that information on the tags/tickets. We get phone calls asking us to measure items all the time; the height and/or length of a dresser or table. The height of the shelves or if they are adjustable. What is the size of the quilt, will that over-sized couch fit in my car, etc... You get the picture.
It is also helpful to know the measurements of common household items, such as beds: Twin size 39" x 75", Full size is 54" x 75", Queen size 60" x 80", King 76" x 80."
Seriously, a good measuring tape is worth it's weight in gold! (Or at least the room it'll take up in your basket/box/purse!)
6. Duster & Paper Towels
We all know that Flea Markets are known for being dusty and dirty, there just seems to be something about all of this "old stuff" that oozes dust. This doesn't have to be true, however! We dust and clean items and areas, all. the. time. We sweep and vacuum, especially when we are changing around a booth. And since rust seems to sell right now, and it leaves a trail wherever it goes, there's some more dirt that needs swept up on a regular basis!
It can definitely be worth the effort though! I have dusted pieces that have set for quite some time and soon after, that new shine or luster caught the attention of a buyer.
Also! Polishing that silver can make all the difference. If it's not selling tarnished, try polishing it! That may be just the push someone needs to buy that piece they've been eyeballing!
Sure, that mirror may be peeling but, that doesn't mean that the rest of it shouldn't sparkle like a Windex commercial! I would be hard pressed to count the number of people who have expressed to us how much they appreciate the cleaner environment that we strive to keep!
In saying this though, don't stress too much about it! Cobwebs show character, right? Oh, maybe not.
It can definitely be worth the effort though! I have dusted pieces that have set for quite some time and soon after, that new shine or luster caught the attention of a buyer.
Also! Polishing that silver can make all the difference. If it's not selling tarnished, try polishing it! That may be just the push someone needs to buy that piece they've been eyeballing!
Sure, that mirror may be peeling but, that doesn't mean that the rest of it shouldn't sparkle like a Windex commercial! I would be hard pressed to count the number of people who have expressed to us how much they appreciate the cleaner environment that we strive to keep!
In saying this though, don't stress too much about it! Cobwebs show character, right? Oh, maybe not.
7. Hangers
The picture above shows a few ideas of how to hang items in your booth. It all depends on the type of wall that you're working with. Peg board is a nice way to present smaller items. The drapery hanger works so well on chicken wire type walls. We also used floral wire for hanging items. These are just a few to get you started, let your creativity shine through! Hanging things up on the walls gives you a way to create height and draw people's eye up to the things on the top of your booth.
***Bonus***
Impromptu "hanger" for flea market booth when you don't have wire, etc. on hand!
8. Goo-Gone & Razorblade
This is to try to save you from some embarrassing situations; please always remove the ticket that shows how much *you* payed for an item, from the item! You may have gotten a bargain on that vintage bowl and believe that you can sell it for $15.00, but if your $2.00 sticker is still on the bottom of the item, we have to honor that price. Goo Gone works wonderful in getting old price tags and writing off of dishes and other plastic/glass items. The razor blade is also great for removing stickers. If the dirt is really stubborn, goo gone and the razor blade together should do the trick!
9. Tools
You never know when you will need that hammer, nails, or hanger to hang a picture. The scissors come in handy for removing tags, especially if you are marking items down and want to replace their tags, it can really save you some time if you cut the tag instead of untying it.
10. Staging Props
These are staging items. They are not necessary, but they sure are helpful!
If everything's at the same height, that means the items in the back will most likely get overlooked-add some height!
You can also use props to show an idea for how the item can be used, present its use in a new way, etc.! All of these things add up to help your items catch the attention of the customer.
That concludes our "Top 10" list for today, I'm sure it'll keep growing and changing as time goes on! Go get yourself a booth and sell those extra items laying around the house or enjoy the thrill of the hunt for a bargain!
Just remember,
having a booth is a business and if you want to make money
you have to work at it...
Change the items to new spots at least every two weeks and give the booth a complete overhaul as often as possible, when things look different, those frequent shoppers will be more inclined to give everything a once over again!
More frequent shoppers+more frequent thorough searches of your booth
=more frequent sales for you!
We definitely don't have all the answers and we would love to hear your advice and suggestions, but we do hope this can be a help to you!
So, what would you put on your "Top 10" list?
Leave us a comment below!
If everything's at the same height, that means the items in the back will most likely get overlooked-add some height!
You can also use props to show an idea for how the item can be used, present its use in a new way, etc.! All of these things add up to help your items catch the attention of the customer.
That concludes our "Top 10" list for today, I'm sure it'll keep growing and changing as time goes on! Go get yourself a booth and sell those extra items laying around the house or enjoy the thrill of the hunt for a bargain!
Just remember,
having a booth is a business and if you want to make money
you have to work at it...
Change the items to new spots at least every two weeks and give the booth a complete overhaul as often as possible, when things look different, those frequent shoppers will be more inclined to give everything a once over again!
More frequent shoppers+more frequent thorough searches of your booth
=more frequent sales for you!
We definitely don't have all the answers and we would love to hear your advice and suggestions, but we do hope this can be a help to you!
So, what would you put on your "Top 10" list?
Leave us a comment below!
-The GA Gang
- Published on
We recently received a really interesting clock in the store, that is shaped like a horse and buggy. As the clock runs the whip in the coachman’s hand whips up and down. The clock was made by United Metal Goods Mfg. Co. Brooklyn, NY, Model No. 701.
Clocks like this are considered “schlock’s” in the clock industry. Also called carnival clocks in the antique world because they were given away at fairs and /or carnivals. Even though they have titles like “schlock’s” and “carnival” as I researched these clocks, it was repeatedly said that they “keep good time.” The clock companies found a market to sell their merchandise and their quality keeps on ticking.
There is very little info on line about the United Metal Good Mfg. Co., of Brooklyn, NY. It appears that Abraham Levy was the founder of The Sessions Company which was a division of United Metal Good Mfg. The first "carnival clocks" accredited to the company are from 1905. The height of their fame was in the 1930’s and 40’s. They incorporated in 1931. Mr. Abraham Levy died in 1961. In August 1968 United Metal Good Mfg. Co. bought Sessions and then at the end of the year both companies closed completely.
That makes the age of carnival clocks between 1905 and 1968.
There is very little info on line about the United Metal Good Mfg. Co., of Brooklyn, NY. It appears that Abraham Levy was the founder of The Sessions Company which was a division of United Metal Good Mfg. The first "carnival clocks" accredited to the company are from 1905. The height of their fame was in the 1930’s and 40’s. They incorporated in 1931. Mr. Abraham Levy died in 1961. In August 1968 United Metal Good Mfg. Co. bought Sessions and then at the end of the year both companies closed completely.
That makes the age of carnival clocks between 1905 and 1968.
The one that arrived here was titled “The Hansom Cabriolet” (cab). There is quite a history that goes with the Hansom cab. It was designed and patented in December 23, 1834 by Joseph Hansom, an architect. It was originally called the Hansom “safety cab.” It was designed for speed and safety with its low center of gravity. It was the first horse and carriage fixed with taximeters. It was in 1869 that it was set up in New York City and Brooklyn New York to provide transportation. The cost was .30 cents for one mile or .40 cents for two people for one mile.
For you Sherlockians, did you know that the Hansom cab was the taxi/cab of choice by the fictional character Sherlock Holmes. It would speedily and safely get Sherlock to the crime scene.
For you Sherlockians, did you know that the Hansom cab was the taxi/cab of choice by the fictional character Sherlock Holmes. It would speedily and safely get Sherlock to the crime scene.
This taxi was the cause of the Great Horse Manure Crisis of 1894. It seems that the horses produced 15 to 35 pounds of manure per day and 2 pints of urine. It was becoming a major issue in England where this cab was originated. The last horse-drawn cab license was issued in London in 1947.
http://www.sherlock-holmes.co.uk/society/hansom-cab.html
Mr. Joseph Hansom went on to become a famed architect. This is a picture of St. Beuno’s College near St. Asuph in North Wales, of which he was the architect. He was also architect to several churches in the Great Britain area.
Carnival glass is another item found in antique shops that was given away at fairs and/or carnivals. The first piece of carnival glass was a Fenton piece in 1908. No wonder it was such a draw to go to the fairs with all the fancy dishes and accurate clocks being given away.
I wonder, if it was on the midway, at the pie contest, or in the livestock shows these items were given away.
What do you think? :)
What do you think? :)
- Published on
Remember our post on using your five senses to identify if something is truly vintage or an antique?
Well, here's another way to use your eyes:
Symbology -
"A way of identifying the age of some items when antiquing and flea marketing"
One symbol I like to use to tell the age of items is...
the BARCODE.
Well, here's another way to use your eyes:
Symbology -
"A way of identifying the age of some items when antiquing and flea marketing"
One symbol I like to use to tell the age of items is...
the BARCODE.
The barcode is a series of lines in distinct patterns accompanied by binary numbers (two numerals to represent all real numbers) below the lines. The barcode is generally in a rectangular shape.
The barcode began in commercial use on June 26, 1974. The first product scanned was a packet of Wrigley’s “Juicy Fruit” gum bought by Clyde Dawson and scanned by Sharon Buchanan at 8:01 a.m. (A display of this moment of time is on display at Smithsonian Institute).
http://barcodingblog.files.wordpress.com/2012/08/first-upc-barcode.png
http://angelikaschneider.com/graphic_design.html
Knowing a little bit about the barcode and when it began is a good way to identify the age of an item. Items such as; books, VHS’s, magazines, cards, boxes used for products like coffee or butter, old tins, signs, band aids tins, or patterns, will have a bar code. If these items do not have a bar code they were made prior to 1974 or from another country.
So, what do you know about barcodes?
Leave us a comment and tell us about it! :)
Leave us a comment and tell us about it! :)
-The GA Gang
- Published on
Recently, we purchased a tray that caught my interest. It is glass with a cross and the letters “IHS” etched on the bottom. I asked the person selling the item what the letters stood for, they said that it stands for “In His Service”.
My findings are that this is a tray used to hold cruets-one with water and one with wine. It is from the 1950’s. It is used in the Roman Catholic Mass Sacraments. It is called the “Holy Eucharist” or “The Holy Sacrifice of the Mass”.
Eucharist means “Thanksgiving” in Latin.
This lovely plate needs to be reunited with some cruets that have glass cross stoppers.
Image borrowed from the Internet
Come check it out at Grandma’s Attic!
-The GA Gang
- Published on
When I hear the name Hitchcock I generally think of Alfred Hitchcock, writer and producer of scary movies. So it was easy for me to believe that Alfred Hitchcock could have been the maker of an electric chair, but "Hitchcock chairs" were actually made by Lambert Hitchcock,
not Alfred.
On a side note, did you know Alfred Hitchcock was scared of his own movies?
not Alfred.
On a side note, did you know Alfred Hitchcock was scared of his own movies?
Alfred
Lambert
Alfred Hitchcock, the author and director, known as the Master of Suspense, arrived on the scene August 13, 1899. As a child, Hitchcock was sent to the local police station with a letter from his father. The desk sergeant read the letter and immediately locked the boy up for ten minutes. After that, the sergeant let young Alfred go, explaining, "This is what happens to people who do bad things." Hitchcock had a morbid fear of police from that day on. He also cited this phobia as the reason he never learned to drive (as a person who doesn't drive can never be pulled over and given a ticket). It was also cited as the reason for the recurring "wrong man" themes in his films. Mr. Alfred Hitchcock left us on April 29, 1980. Do you think Mr. Alfred Hitchcock may have sat in a chair made by Mr. Lambert Hitchcock? I guess we'll never know!
Now, back to the chair! :)
Now, back to the chair! :)
The Hitchcock chair was an early example of mass production. The frames are generally of birch, oak, or maple. The backs have a curved top with a broad gentle curved back-slat, then a broad slat that usually has a design such as; leaves, flowers, baskets of fruit or cornucopias. Below this, is a narrow crosspiece, connected to the sides, that is a continuation of the leg. The front legs and the stretcher between are nicely turned in spools, rings, or vase shapes. The seats are wider at the front and graduate back with straight sides and rolled or rounded edges in front. The front legs of some of the chairs have a ball on the bottom.
There are several types of back slats; “turtle-back,” “cut-out back slat,” - a curved back with spindles, “the pillow back”, eagles, cornucopias, plain, button back, and a crested back. The rarest of the back slats are the eagles, cornucopias, and the scrolls. About 1845, the “vase back” chair or “Urn chair” chair became popular. The wide vertical middle slat was shaped like an urn or vase. It was sometimes called “Fiddleback.” The top slats are called crest rails which are referred to as; “crown top,” “crest top,” or “pillow top.”
There are several types of back slats; “turtle-back,” “cut-out back slat,” - a curved back with spindles, “the pillow back”, eagles, cornucopias, plain, button back, and a crested back. The rarest of the back slats are the eagles, cornucopias, and the scrolls. About 1845, the “vase back” chair or “Urn chair” chair became popular. The wide vertical middle slat was shaped like an urn or vase. It was sometimes called “Fiddleback.” The top slats are called crest rails which are referred to as; “crown top,” “crest top,” or “pillow top.”
In the beginning the chairs resembled rosewood, because the first coat of red paint, applied by children, showed through the black, also used were the colors white and green. Later a lemon-yellow color and brown were used as a background colors. Seats were first made of rush, then cane, and then plank. They were usually painted black, brownish-black or dark green. They have yellow ochre pin striping with gold half-rings on the front legs. The stencils were painted with metallic colors like red, gold, blue and white. The designs can be found on the back and sides of the chairs.
They were marked on the back with stencil “L. Hitchcock, Hitchcocksville, Connecticut, Warranted” all in one line. Hitchcocksville would have been used when the furniture was manufactured in Boston, Massachusetts. Hitchcock chose his woods with care and allowed none to be used with knots or other imperfections. Later marks were “Hitchcock, Alford & Co. Hitchcocks-ville Conn. Warranted,” and “L. Hitchcock, Unionville. Conn. Warranted.”
The height of the Hitchcock chair sales was in the 1920’s and 30’s. The earliest signature is dated from 1820 to 1832. From 1832 to 1843 the signature read “HITCHCOCK, ALFORD& Cl HITCHCOCKSVILLE, CONN WARRANTED” and from 1843 to 1852 the signature read “L.HITCHCOCK.UNIONVILLE,CONN. WARRANTED.” In the second variation of the stencils, many of the chairs have two backwards “N’s” in the word “CONN.” This is thought to have occurred because many of the laborers who worked on the chairs were illiterate. If the “N” is written backwards, your Hitchcock chair is not an original but a replica made after 1946.
These chairs are identified as “New Hampshire Hitchcock,” or “Sheraton Hitchcock” chairs. Hitchcock is best known for their “Boston Rocker.”
These chairs are identified as “New Hampshire Hitchcock,” or “Sheraton Hitchcock” chairs. Hitchcock is best known for their “Boston Rocker.”
The Hitchcock chair was began in 1818 by Mr. Lambert Hitchcock of Barkhamsted, Connecticut. He established a cabinet and chair factory. He began by making parts that could be assembled later for the chair industry of Charleston, South Carolina. In 1825 he began making complete chairs. Mr. Hitchcock was born in Chesshire, Connecticut on June 28, 1795 and was the son of Revolutionary soldier John Lee Hitchcock. He came to rest in 1852.
We received a call one day from a gentleman wanting to sell us a chair. We asked to see the chair before we purchased it, so he brought it to us and while it was in the store a vendor came in and said, “Oh, you have a Hitchcock chair!” After some research and dickering, the chair now resides at Grandma’s Attic. Come and check it out and let us know if you believe it is a real Hitchcock chair.
-The GA Gang
- Published on
We saw this little story on Facebook the other day, and thought it was really neat, so we decided to add pictures and share it with you!
Hope you enjoy! :)
Hope you enjoy! :)
The History of Aprons
"I don't think our kids know what an apron is. The principle use of Grandma's apron was to protect the dress underneath because she only had a few. It was also because it was easier to wash aprons than dresses and aprons used less material. But along with that, it served as a potholder for removing hot pans from the oven.
It was wonderful for drying children's tears, and on occasion was even used for cleaning out dirty ears.
From the chicken coop, the apron was used for carrying eggs, fussy chicks, and sometimes half-hatched eggs to be finished in the warming oven.
When company came, those aprons were ideal hiding places for shy kids...
From the chicken coop, the apron was used for carrying eggs, fussy chicks, and sometimes half-hatched eggs to be finished in the warming oven.
When company came, those aprons were ideal hiding places for shy kids...
And when the weather was cold, Grandma wrapped it around her arms.
Those big old aprons wiped many a perspiring brow, bent over the hot wood stove.
Chips and kindling wood were brought into the kitchen in that apron.
Those big old aprons wiped many a perspiring brow, bent over the hot wood stove.
Chips and kindling wood were brought into the kitchen in that apron.
From the garden, it carried all sorts of vegetables. After the peas had been shelled, it carried out the hulls.
In the fall, the apron was used to bring in apples that had fallen from the trees.
In the fall, the apron was used to bring in apples that had fallen from the trees.
When unexpected company drove up the road, it was surprising how much furniture that old apron could dust in a matter of seconds.
When dinner was ready, Grandma walked out onto the porch, waved her apron, and the men folk knew it was time to come in from the fields to dinner.
When dinner was ready, Grandma walked out onto the porch, waved her apron, and the men folk knew it was time to come in from the fields to dinner.
It will be a long time before someone invents something that will replace that 'old-time apron' that served so many purposes.
Send this to those who would know (and love) the story about Grandma's aprons.
Send this to those who would know (and love) the story about Grandma's aprons.
REMEMBER:
Grandma used to set her hot baked apple pies on the window sill to cool. Her granddaughters set theirs on the window sill to thaw.
Grandma used to set her hot baked apple pies on the window sill to cool. Her granddaughters set theirs on the window sill to thaw.
They would go crazy now trying to figure out how many germs were on that apron.
I don't think I ever caught anything from an apron - but love..."
-Author Unknown
I don't think I ever caught anything from an apron - but love..."
-Author Unknown
-The GA Gang
- Published on
Chairs designed in the 1930’s
· 1930 Palmio Chair by Alvar Aalto
· 1930 Barcelona Chair by Ludwig Mies Van Der Rohe
· 1933 Cantilevered Chair No. 31 by Alvar Aalto
· 1934 Zig Zag chair by Gerrit Rietveld
· 1934 Standard chair by Jeane Prouve’
· 1935 Crate chair by Gerrit Rietveld
· 1935 Vilpuri chair by Alvar Aalto
· 1935 Chaise Lounge chair by Marcel Breuer
· 1936 Serving Cart by Alvar Aalto
· 1937 Wing spread Barrel chair by Frank Lloyd Wright
· 1938 Landior Spartana chair by Hans Coray
· 1938 Sling chair by Jorge Ferrari Hardoy
· 1930 Barcelona Chair by Ludwig Mies Van Der Rohe
· 1933 Cantilevered Chair No. 31 by Alvar Aalto
· 1934 Zig Zag chair by Gerrit Rietveld
· 1934 Standard chair by Jeane Prouve’
· 1935 Crate chair by Gerrit Rietveld
· 1935 Vilpuri chair by Alvar Aalto
· 1935 Chaise Lounge chair by Marcel Breuer
· 1936 Serving Cart by Alvar Aalto
· 1937 Wing spread Barrel chair by Frank Lloyd Wright
· 1938 Landior Spartana chair by Hans Coray
· 1938 Sling chair by Jorge Ferrari Hardoy
Alvar Aalto
1930 - Finnish - sleek curved lines
Cantilevered Chair No. 31
Vilpuri Chair
Serving Cart
Alvar Aalto
Stacking Stools
Palmio Chair
Ludwig Mies Van Der Rohe
of Bauhause School
1930- 1933
German- American extreme clarity and simplicity
Ludwig Mies Van Der Rohe
Barcelona Chair
Gerrit Rietveld
1934- Dutch - Simplicity in construction
Gerrit Rietveld
Zig Zag Chair
Crate chair and table
Rood-Blauwe Stoel
Jean Prouve’
1934 - French - "We like logic, balance and purity”
Jean Prouve’
Bahut Brazzaville
LaChaise Standard chair or Chaise Longue
Marcel Breuer Lajko
1935 - Hungarian – greatly influence the establishment of an American way of designing modern houses
Chaise Longue
Marcel Breuer Lajko
"Wassily"
Frank Lincoln “Lloyd” Wright
1937 - American - organic architecture
Frank Lincoln “Lloyd” Wright
Barrel Arm chair or Wing spread chair
Hans Coray
1938 – Swiss -known for the functionality and simplicity of his designs.
Hans Coray
L A U D I . C H A I R
Jorge Ferrari Hardoy
1938 - Argentinian -the most imitated chair in modern furniture history
S L I N G . C H A I R
Jorge Ferrari Hardoy
Do you have anything to add?
Leave us a comment below, we'd love to hear from you! :)
Leave us a comment below, we'd love to hear from you! :)
-The GA Gang
- Published on
At the swap meet last Saturday, we bought four cute glass jars with wood tops from a swap meet vendor.
Each of the lids had a chicken sticker on it.
We decided the jars would make fun display items for the counter, so we pulled off the stickers and replaced them with our own. :)
Each of the lids had a chicken sticker on it.
We decided the jars would make fun display items for the counter, so we pulled off the stickers and replaced them with our own. :)
First, we used our favorite photo editing site, Picmonkey, and designed a new "sticker" for the jar tops, based on what we were going to put inside-in this case; marbles, jars of honey, Zotz candy, and A&W Root Beer Jelly Bellys.
After we printed off the new "stickers", we took 1/2 Elmer's glue and 1/2 water and mixed up a "Modpodge" type glue.
Next we made sure the labels were going to be the right size for the lids...
Then it was time to paint a thin layer of our glue on the backside of the paper and press it down on the wooden lid.
We could have left it just like that, but we decided since the jars already had a "vintage" feel to them, that we would paint a thin layer of glue on over the top too. This smears the ink a little and gives it an aged look.
We wiped the glue off around the edges so we weren't left with a dried crust on the wood. :)
Once they were all dry and filled with the goodies, we were finished!
Voila! Vintage inspired jars with an old fashioned candy store look! :)
Voila! Vintage inspired jars with an old fashioned candy store look! :)
Stop by and tell us what you think! :)
-The GA Gang
- Published on
My introduction to this type of pottery was from a children’s book,
“A Single Shard”.
It was written by Linda Sue Park and won the 2002 Newbery Medal. It is a story of an orphan and his dream to become a potter, set in the 12th century Korea.
In the story, the pottery made by the master potter was “Celadon”. The shard mentioned in the title is a shard of Celadon.
I began to wonder “What does it look like"?
That’s what got me started on this blog post. :)
“A Single Shard”.
It was written by Linda Sue Park and won the 2002 Newbery Medal. It is a story of an orphan and his dream to become a potter, set in the 12th century Korea.
In the story, the pottery made by the master potter was “Celadon”. The shard mentioned in the title is a shard of Celadon.
I began to wonder “What does it look like"?
That’s what got me started on this blog post. :)
Not being very familiar with the term “shard”, I decided to look up the definition; “a piece of broken pottery, especially one found in an archaeological dig; a pot shred, a fragment of a brittle substance, as of glass or metal, or a small piece or part.”
Celadon is usually a pale green with a hint of blue, a glossy appearance and smooth texture. It can be any shade of that color from a very pale yellow-green or gray green to deepest jade-green color. It has a subtle beauty and elegant simplicity.
Molded(Incised) Celadon
Plain Celadon
Inlaid Celadon
Celadon glazing was perfected during the Koryo dynasty of Korea which dates from 918 to 1392 AD. There are three design types; inlaid, incised(or molded), and plain(called Mu-ju). Celadon in Korean means “green”. It is referred to as “cheong-ja” in Korean. There is also a brown Celadon which is called “bun-cheong” or brown porcelain, as well as white.
These Celadon items are for sale in Grandma's Attic
Celadon is beautiful pottery but the book A Single Shard made it mean so much more to me than just a piece of pottery from Korea. A Single Shard is a very moving story, it will bring Korean Celadon alive for you. Come on in and see these beautiful pieces of pottery and visit your local library to check out A Single Shard, then let me know what you think of it! :)
-The GA Gang
- Published on
History teaches about the Boston Tea Party on December 1, 1773.
Tea is an important part of our history.
Awhile back, a vendor brought me some little plates and explained that they are “cup plates.” Cup plates are like coasters for tea cups; they were introduced to the tea society around the 1700’s in England and in the United States during the first half of the 19th century.
Tea is an important part of our history.
Awhile back, a vendor brought me some little plates and explained that they are “cup plates.” Cup plates are like coasters for tea cups; they were introduced to the tea society around the 1700’s in England and in the United States during the first half of the 19th century.
Photo credit: Harrogate Museums & Arts
Tea was originally consumed from “tea bowls.” In the 1700’s saucers were placed with the tea bowls. The tea was too hot to drink therefore was poured into the saucer to cool before consumption. Tea cups, at that time, had no handles. In order to drink the tea from the saucer two hands were needed, which made it necessary to put the cups down. The saucers were used to protect furniture from marks left by the tea cups.
Authentic Antique Cup Plate
Reproduction Cup Plate
In the 1750’s teacups with handles were introduced. It took a while to get used to cups with handles and saucers, but it eventually spread, and at that time cup plates were no longer necessary.
The vendor had authentic cup plates, as well as some commemorative cup plates-seven plates altogether. They are all between 3 ¼ and 3 ½ inches in diameter. They are clear glass and have decorative designs.
Authentic Antique Cup Plate
Reproduction Cup Plate
This is another good example of how to use your five senses when attempting to identify “the real thing.”
The vendor explained how to authenticate these cup plates;
Hold the plate between your thumb and forefinger then…
The vendor explained how to authenticate these cup plates;
Hold the plate between your thumb and forefinger then…
thump the end.
If it is authentic it will make a clear “ping” sound.
If it is not authentic it will make a “plunk” sound.
If it is authentic it will make a clear “ping” sound.
If it is not authentic it will make a “plunk” sound.
The weight of the commemorative plates is also heavier than the real ones.
The old cup plates are true antiques if you can find them. And now you will know how to tell if you have the real deal. They cost about $3.50 each.
Now, get on out there and hunt up some cup plates! :)
The old cup plates are true antiques if you can find them. And now you will know how to tell if you have the real deal. They cost about $3.50 each.
Now, get on out there and hunt up some cup plates! :)
